From Bill Buford's profile of Gordon Ramsay in the April 2 New Yorker
In England, good food has always been French, even if, today, many suspect it can’t possibly be the real thing (if the chef is so great, what’s he doing here?), a suspicion held also by Ramsay. “When I heard that Maison Blanc had gone tits up, it added two inches to my cock,” Ramsay was quoted as saying after Raymond Blanc’s restaurant, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, in Oxfordshire, yet again did not get a third Michelin star, adding, “I don’t give a fuck what that jumped-up little French twat thinks—the only reason he’s in Britain is because he failed in France.”